It wasn’t a question of who did digital prints this Fashion Week (they were everywhere), it was a case of who did them the best. One contender is certainly Adi Setiadi, the designer behind emerging Sydney label An Ode to No One. Working in collaboration with graphic design agency Helm, Adi developed a series of architectural prints derived from photographs of various structures. Printed on wool and silk, the overlapped and mirrored images – at times verging on the kaleidoscopic – were a perfect match for tailored shift-dresses, skirting and shirting.

Ice-blue and cobalt lead the colour palette before moving into cool grey and pastels set against hot orange. The collection title ‘Visions of Symmetry’ manifested itself in both the considered application of the prints and crisp tailoring – most visibly on sharp-shouldered jackets and a pastel pink pant-suit. Miniskirts were explored in tulip shapes but most lengths fell demurely at or just over the knee. There were nods to sportswear in the use of a hot orange stripe and the addition of slouchy tops but it wasn’t the same overt sporty-luxe theme running throughout MBFWA.

Although diffusion line A.D. has a collaboration with Sportsgirl under its belt, with An Ode to No One Adi is chasing a decidedly more grown-up girl. There was softness and a maturity to the collection, making An Ode to No One a very promising one to watch.

Words by Lucinda Burtt Photos by Vanessa Low

One rearing Arabian stallion bodysuit and three years later, We Are Handsome is the final word in bold and beautiful swimwear. With global stockists (hello, Net-A-Porter) and a cult following, things are on the up-and-up for this Sydney-based label. You’re probably familiar with their striking dreamscapes – made from photographic collages with super-saturated colours – and this season extends their limited edition apparel in the form of silk skirts and cover-ups.

This season the print stories are as eye-catching as ever with animals predominating including a grizzly lion, a fierce tiger and a bald eagle plus a splattering of diamonds and palms silhouetted against a setting sun. Even the patterns play with the eyes, on close inspection the rose wallpaper print features tiny hidden kittens. The zebra design splashed over the runway appeared on bikini tops as models walked out sucking on ice-blocks. The prints have also translated well onto several silk pieces although the low-cut necklines and sheer mean they are clearly intended to be worn over the swimwear for a beach-to-bar look. Of note was a long swishy silk skirt with an ombre-effect sunset cityscape.

The showpiece, a skin-tight jumpsuit with peek-a-book mesh no less, should probably be left to the celebrity fans – Tyra Banks and Nicky Minaj have been spotted in their pieces – but everyone else can enjoy their distinctive prints on bikinis, mini-dresses, leggings, body suits and signature scoop back one piece. Winter might be around the corner but there’s never been a better time to start dreaming of the sun.

Words by Lucinda Burtt Photos by Jessi White

“Feeling matching floral prints”- Jess, blogger

Blazer Camilla and Marc
Pants Camilla and Marc
Shirt Zara
Heels ASOS
Bag PS11 Proenza Schouler
Watch Michael Kors

“I felt grungey today” – Christoph, stylist.

Sunnies Vintage
Jacket Vintage
Boots Vintage
Bag Danindelimma
Watch Tommy Hilfiger
Cuff Hermes

“Just teaming all my favourite bright and cheerful pieces” - Katie, buyer.

Coat Karen Walker
Dress Topshop
Sunnies Thierry Lasry
Clutch Romance Was Born
Heels Isabel Marant
Necklace Karen Walker

Everyone wanted a slice of Ellery at Fashion Week. Editors, designer friends and international bloggers queued on the streets before packing into a refurbished warehouse to witness designer Kym Ellery’s Spring Summer 2012/13 collection ‘Delicatessen’.

Perhaps only Kym Ellery can get away with being both referential and respected. There’s no avoiding that this collection wears its inspiration on its sleeve (or in this case, its shoulders) but something feels fresh and more importantly, very wearable. Could it be the pared-back colour palette? Deviating from the brights and prints that dominated the runways, Ellery explored oxblood red, forest and moss green with ivory, black and silver. Worked in suede, linen, silk organza and a dash of glitter tulle, shapes were voluminous with emphasis on the shoulders or softly stream-lined with peplum detailing.

Kym Ellery’s dedicated followers talk about her label in superlatives – favourite, perfect, hypnotically cool – and it’s easy to see why. There’s something in that kick of red suede, sleeveless jacket dress or swathe of molten-like silver. It’s all a bit dress-upy and after you know Kym was inspired by the loss of her childhood teddy-bear (affectionately named ‘Delicatessen’) some of those references fall into place.

Words by Lucinda Burtt Photos by Vanessa Low

On the first day of MBFWA, designer Courtney Meyer presented Miss Unkon’s Spring Summer 2012/13 collection entitled ‘The Life Between’. Inspired by the magical moments in our everyday lives intertwined with the honesty and magnificence of nature and cityscapes, the collection was whimsical in appearance with soft colours and intricate metal embellishment.

The collection primarily included sorbet shades of baby blue and yellow, off-white pieces as well as splashes of vibrant peach, turquoise, pink and black. Featuring flowing dresses, cap-sleeved shirts, flip-skirts, sheer blouses, swing-tops and digitally printed garments, the collection encapsulated the romance of the Miss Unkon story – fusing feminine with edgy, an aesthetic for which the brand has become well-known.

The collection featured exquisite pleating, soft netting, laser cutting and beautiful embellishment but it was the hand stitched embroidery and beading that were the standout pieces, inspired by the art-deco movement and its grandeur. Mixing the image of a mountainous landscape with pastel art-deco colours to evoke the feel of Miami and its magical, iconic scenery, many pieces included cutout backs and shoulders, as well as tie-up closures and stunning silk overlays.

After the show, we had the opportunity to sneak backstage for an official interview with Meyer herself, who explained to us a little bit more about Miss Unkon’s ‘The Life Between’ and what inspired her this season.

Courtney, what inspired you for ‘The Life Between’ Spring Summer 2012/13?
The inspiration really came from telling this story [about] the magical moments in life. Even if you’re just walking in the city, there’s something like a beautiful sunset or something magical, so we really brought that whole story into the collection. It’s just about creating this world where she [the  girl] goes out and makes magic happen.

Can you tell us a little bit more about this art deco influence and the mountain landscape imagery?
We had a signature print, which was this mountain, and then this beautiful rainbow coloured sunset. It was created for us and really mirrored back to the whole theme of the magic within the every day.

If you had to choose one piece from your collection, the essential piece that every girl should have, what would it be?
Gosh! That’s so hard! Personally, I love the Magic Waters pieces, which are the ones with the beading and the metalling. And then I love the Petals of Joy skirt, the organza skirt [with the] embroidery [which was] something I illustrated and then it was created into the fabric.

Overall, the collection was a beautiful fusion of feminine silhouettes and soft, natural elements, as Meyer took us all on a voyage through a ‘wonderland of dreams’. Showcasing simplicity and elegance, attention to detail, soft pastel colours and interesting fabric manipulations made for, what we here at OTSOS believe, was one of the best womenswear meets streetwear collections at MBFWA 2012.

True Unkon-ventional perfection…just the way we like it!

Words by Rebecca Glaser Photos by Vanessa Low

In a day dominated by more after-parties than shows, Akira brought a beautiful grace to the end of MBFWA. In the intimate space of The Box, Akira Isogawa led out each of the models by hand beginning with a bridal white dress encrusted with sprays of crystal beading. There were three themes in the collection: soft white, bright kimono dresses and textured block colour accessorised with sculptural wraps reminiscent of coral.

A soft underwater theme continued at Bless’ed Are The Meek, who treated the audience to a spectacular laser show, bringing the models out though the filtering light. Prints of blotchy anenomes peppered the summery collection – think skintight pants, breezy split skirts, button-down dresses – which kept to an oceanic palette of aqua, purple and neutrals.

The Stye Hong Kong show was opened by Harrison Wong whose collection of tailored khakis, black leather, and red accents echoed both military uniforms and the suave alpha male aesthetic. The other collections showed a variety of styles, including a couple of neon bursts at Hei Lau and lots of lace and tiaras for Mondovi lingerie couture. The show ended on a softer note, with Chailie Ho‘s flowing drapery, some pieces billowing down the runway.

Highlight
Akira Isogawa demonstrated why he’s one of the select few to have cracked the tough Paris show circuit. The Box was crowded with photographers eager to snap every considered detail and the floor of scattered hand-cut fabric petals. We bumped into an enthusiastic Bryan Boy on our way out who particularly praised the kimono pieces.

Fashion Moment
In the hectic schedule of Fashion Week, it’s no mean feat to produce a show that takes your breathe away – especially after starting late due to the complex braided hair and earthy make-up. There were audible gasps at Bless’ed Are The Meek as blue beams of light shot through the smoke filled runway creating the effect of an undulating textured roof. The final showpiece dress was also impressively accessorised with a 24 carat gold lace headpiece.

Trend Alert
Akira was one of several collections to explore intricate beadwork this week in sprays of crystal and beaded blossoms. There were also clusters of moon-craters at Tony Maticevski, incredible seed-beading patterns at Christopher Esber and bugle-beads at Magdalena Velevska.

It’s a Wrap!
By Friday we were battling the dreaded fashion flu, fever and fatigue but still determined to see the week out at the Fernando Frisoni Masquerade, the official closing night event. We hope you have enjoyed our coverage of all the action at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Australia. Stay tuned for selected reviews and galleries.

Words and photos by Lucinda Burtt & Vanessa Low | Masquerade photos by Mark Thompson, Stork Photos

Fashion ran the full spectrum today from the return of beloved fashion icon Jenny Kee to the recent TAFE graduates at the Innovators show. In the evening Carl Kapp and Christopher Esber seriously stepped up the pace delivering two of the strongest shows this week. Jenny Kee made the best use of The Box seen so far, setting her rainbow ‘Australiana’ scarves against a eucalypt wonderland filled with the lemony scent of the bush and sonorous bird calls. Styled by Romance Was Born with elaborate native flower headpieces, the waratah was a defining motif in the prints – ‘my favourite flower’ confided Jenny.

It was a full house for the TAFE Innovators show and no surprise considering this institution has consitently produced some of Australia’s most innovative designers such as Dion Lee, Luke Sales & Anna Plunkett (Romance Was Born) and Akira Isogawa who sat front row. Of the six graduates, the botanical prints and complex crafting of award winner Kaylene Milner (main picture) was a particular standout – her prize including spending money and a coveted internship in New York with Diane von Furstenberg. After the show Kaylene revealed the reality of jetting off next week still hadn’t sunk in. The first thing she’s going to do when she lands in NY? Take a well deserved break.

Althought the night slots are the most difficult, Thursday evenings are usually a standout. The Carl Kapp show titled ‘Collision’ started fittingly with the sounds of a revving motorbike having a spectacular crash. The clothes were bright, sharp and accessorised with perfectly styled David Fincher Lisbeth Salander wigs. The loud raving voices leaving the show praised the lack of ‘seen that’ trends – nary a peplum in sight. The same can be said of Christopher Esber who explored sporting references in structured shapes adorned with clusters of seed-beading on cuffs, collars and necklines. A definite contender for show of the week.

Highlight
The rousing applause and crowded post-show backstage said one thing: Christopher Esber you delivered beautifully. The concertina maze was the most dramatic runway yet highlighting the structured clothes and intricate detailing.

Fashion Moment
The most colourful crowds of the week turned up for Jenny Kee, many wearing her jewel toned scarves as bandanas, headscarves or neckties. We spied the cute as a button actor Sophie Lowe and model Emma Balfour.

From the Front Row
We Are Handsome brought the fun to fashion week with a zebra print runway and watermelon lemonade ice-blocks on entry. As expected the prints were bold and intriguing in their signature super-saturated colours.

Trend Alert
On the street, pastel hair is having a moment possibly to match all those pastel colours.

Words by Lucinda Burtt Photos by Jessi White and Vanessa Low

Bold primary colour was the emerging key trend and those florals just kept coming strong. We started bright and early at Lisa Ho featuring vibrant leafy prints and jewel tones. The colours continued at Alice McCall and her ‘Babushka’ themed collection working rainbow-hued embroidery and gauzy overlays into beautiful dresses and seperates. The On The Streets photography team was particularly enthusiastic stating it was the first ‘instantly wearable’ collection of the week. Later in The Box, Sara Phillips cemented her reputation for pretty prints including layered florals and an animalia print. There were shades of Mary Kataranzou in the nipped-in waists but the pastel palette and soft silks were very Sara Phillips.

The fashion pack was out in full force today, first for Ellery and later for Oroton. At Ellery it was all about the shoulders with exaggerated seams and a palette of red velvet, magenta and bottle-green silks with liquid silver. The Oroton collection took a nod towards nautical for their debut womenswear collection featuring ropey prints, two-tone sweaters and breezy silk separates in tangelo and cornflower blue paired (of course!) with bags including a standout throw-over-the-shoulder leather rucksack.

We stayed out late for An Ode to No One (main image) and finished the day hanging with the pretty boys backstage before the highly anticipated Menswear group show. A welcome addition to the schedule, stay tuned for a full report next week.

Highlight
With a very cool front row and a live DJ it was clear that An Ode to No One was going to be something special. The kaleidoscopic digital prints of architectural structures in shades of blues and peach did not disappoint. Shifts and sporty shapes were dominant and when the prints are as interesting as this, it makes perfect sense to let them shine.

Fashion Moment
Designers, bloggers, editors, everyone made the trek to Ellery causing the street style photographers to go wild. Coveted shots on the road at the off-site location in Darlinghurst may have caused some serious road rage if the droning honking was anything to go by.

From the Front Row
Styled by street style favourite Taylor Tomasi Hill, the Oroton show proved the label can makes clothes that compliment the lifestyle label. All the model favourites were there including Ruby-Jean Wilson, Samantha Harris and Alice Burdeu.

Trend Alert
Bold colour ran strong from cornflower blue to tangelo and magenta. We are also now on peplum alert: gauzy and stiff folds at Alice McCall and ruffles at Sara Phillips. On the street strappy Celine heels (or ‘inspired’ versions) were the definite footwear of choice.

Words by Lucinda Burtt Photos by Jessi White and Vanessa Low